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Our 6 step road map to buying your used car, haggling with tough sellers and avoiding scams. Best used car advice on the net Used car classifieds sites such as UsedCars.com, Cars.com, CarsDirect.com and Car.com. How to finance used cars through dealers or person-to-person. Review of Up2Drive (a division of BMW Bank of North America) How to use AutoCheck Vehicle History Reports to negotiate a lower price, check for wrecked, salvaged, odometer fraud cars Print out questions for you to ask the seller, our cool used car bill of sale form If you get a discount from new car sites like Cars.com, InvoiceDealers, Edmunds.com you won't need a used car Buying a used car when the seller still owes money on it Extended warranty for high mileage used cars (WarrantyDirect PowerShield & NationWarranty has "any year/any miles") Odometer Fraud costs car buyers over $1 billion every year. Help fight Odometer Fraud. Click Here! If you are buying a used car, you absolutely must get an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) AND have a mechanic inspect the car on a lift. Never heard of AutoCheck? AutoCheck is a premium vehicle history report product from Experian Automotive. Experian Automotive is a business unit of Experian Group Ltd., a company with annual sales in excess of $3.8 billion (you probably know them best as the credit report people). Experian Automotive is able to use all of Experian's data collection expertise to give you a comprehensive vehicle history report including the exclusive Autocheck Score (its like a credit score for your car). CARFAX ® vs. AutoCheck - Why CarBuyingTips.com recommends AutoCheck. Single Vehicle History Report cost: CARFAX ® $34.99 vs. AutoCheck only $29.99 Vehicle History Report cost: CARFAX ® 5 pack $44.99 vs. AutoCheck Unlimited only $44.99 Vehicle History Report duration: CARFAX ® 5 pack 60 days vs. AutoCheck Unlimited 60 days (purchased thru CarBuyingTips.com) All AutoCheck reports include the informative AutoCheck Score Consumer Alert: Tens of thousands of flooded and totaled used cars from Hurricane Katrina and Hurricane Rita When Hurricane Katrina struck Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama and Hurricane Rita hit Florida, Louisiana and Texas, it was one of the worst natural disasters to hit the United States. Aside from death and destruction, few people know what happened to the hundreds of thousands of cars that were totaled, most of them flooded by Katrina's storm surge and the flooding of New Orleans. Many car dealer lots had hundreds of cars completely submerged under water. After insurance claims, these cars will have their titles branded as totaled or flooded, then they'll be shipped to other states so their titles can be laundered back to normal status, while latent water damage corrodes the electronics. It is more important than ever for you to run an Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Report on every used car you look at, because you can't afford to be stuck with a previously flooded or totaled vehicle. Most Popular Used Cars Usedcars.com has compiled a list of the most popular used cars. Click on a model to find one in your area. 1) Ford Mustang 2) Honda Accord 3) Toyota Camry 4) Ford F-Series 5) BMW 3-Series 6) Honda Civic 7) Nissan Altima 8) Toyota Corolla Used Car Pricing Does Not Use Invoice Price We often get asked if "Invoice Price" and "MSRP" apply to used cars, or if you should try to calculate an offer for used cars based on invoice price. No, the Invoice Price and MSRP only apply to new cars, not used cars. For used cars, there is no invoice price because car dealers acquire used cars from people at a "trade in" price, then mark it up on the lot. The best way to determine used car prices is to check how your car has sold on eBay the last few weeks, and bring printouts with you to the dealer to support your offers on used cars. Finding out what's wrong with that used car before you buy Everyone buying a used car should get an Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Report, they get data from a substantial number of dealers and aftermarket repair shops, nearly 5,000 sources. A mechanic can put the car on a lift and instantly spot previous crash damage, hidden frame damage, corrosion, and fluid leaks. But your mechanic can't tell you if your car title has been branded as a flooded vehicle, salvaged, junked, rebuilt, stolen, or passed through a salvage auction. Most mechanics overlook airbags. You can only tell how many owners that car had or where it's been with a history report, not just by looking at the car. This is not the time to 2nd guess. Unfortunately there are no clear laws if you sign an "As Is" paper. Any used car can have a bad past, Mercedes, Lexus, Honda or Toyota. Some municipalities don't supply accident report info, that's why you still need to have a mechanic look at it. If the police never made a report, it won't show up in the AutoCheck Vehicle History Report. CARCHEX Inspection Service In addition to getting a Used Car History Report, I highly recommend having a mechanic inspect the car on a lift. If you can't have this done, CARCHEX offers the next best thing. CARCHEX will send out an inspector to inspect as much as possible without putting the car on a lift including taking the car on a test drive (if the seller allows). The inspection report will detail their findings and recommend things that are concerning and should be looked into further. Again, the CARCHEX Inspection Service does not replace having the used car checked on a lift but it is the next best thing and much better than no inspection at all. Click here to learn more and order a used car inspection from CARCHEX.

Get An Extended Warranty for your used Car
Get an extended warranty for your used car. The best car warranty site we have researched so far who are known to pay claims is Warranty Direct. Read our chapter on Extended Warranty Scams & Tips, or you'll be out several hundred dollars. If you buy a 3 or 4 year old used car, that's when the manufacturer's warranty expires and all hell breaks loose. Unless you have an extended warranty, you are exposed to potentially large losses.

How to find good deals in your area
Usedcars.com's Best Values will show you used cars in your area sorted based on how much lower than the Kelley Blue Book value the car is priced. This tool can be very useful if you are interested in finding the best deal. Click here to visit the Usedcars.com Best Values Section.

Top Sites To Buy & Sell Used Cars The main benefit of these sites is there are many more cars to choose from than your local newspaper. Try them all.
Cars.com is the place to search for your next car, truck or SUV, with over 2.8 million used car listings. Compare used vehicles, locate certified pre-owned cars, quotes from used car dealers, private sellers. You can also Sell Your Car Fast at Cars.com, Place your online ad to reach millions of car buyers.	CarsDirect.com gives you free pricing reports, searches local used cars, Sell Your Car Fast. How It Works: Choose make, model or browse by category and price. Model & Make searches show you detailed price listings for the past several model years of that vehicle. When you browse by category and price, you'll see a list of models and model years that fit your search criteria. Local used car listings are updated daily.	Car.com is good for buying new cars, used cars, or selling used cars. How It Works: Search by zip, or click map to find a used car. The results show options, photos & VIN#. Tip: Use state map search, fewer options you check, more results you see.

Save money financing your used car
You can save money when you buy a used car by using Up2Drive instead of paying a higher rate from the dealer. The process is simple, apply online, response in minutes and they mail you a check to take to the dealer. If you got railroaded into a high APR car loan from a dealer, you can refinance after 3 months with myAutoloan.com or Up2Drive. Lower your current car payments with their Auto Refinancing Loans. A few of my friends have used them. They have a low APR, it's fast, easy and awesome.

How do I finance if a buy a used car from a private person?
A lot of people ask me how to finance a used car when you buy it from a private person. Use myAutoloan.com for private party used car financing. Apply online, approval takes minutes, so you can buy any used car from a private party without paperwork hassles.

Haggling Tip Of The Century
My friend Jerry, when buying his used Lexus RX300, the dealer quoted $26,999. He showed up with a bank draft for $400 less. The dealer accepted, as he was not about to let it slip away. Jerry's mom bought a used Mercedes CLK320, the dealer said $49,600 was their "rock bottom price". She showed up with $48,500 and the dealer took it.

Know your credit score. Get your online credit report.
Read our Auto Finance Help Section for tips on getting your credit report, credit score, and repairing bad marks in your credit report. You can get your credit report online from Experian, Equifax or TrueCredit. Be sure to do that first, most people don't know what's on their credit report, or have never seen it, yet the car dealers and banks have!

Jeff, why do you keep stressing the Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Report and mechanic checking out the used car?
It's because I get several emails weekly (see below) from people who bought a used car at a dealer and signed an "As Is" paper, meaning they have no recourse. I'm sick and tired of seeing preventable losses like this:

Don't fall into the gap!
If you owe more on your car than it is worth, if you lease, or if you put down less than 20%, you should get Gap Coverage. Most people refer to it commonly as "gap insurance". Don't even bother buying it from dealers, they charge $500-$700, you should ask your insurance agent of loan officer about Gap Insurance. If you owe $20,000 on your car, but it's only worth $16,000, you're upside down. You total the car, or it's stolen, your insurance company gives you $16,000. You must still come up with $4000 to pay off the bank, plus your $500 deductible! Gap coverage protects you against this. The better ones cover up to $500 of your deductible.

FRAUD ALERT: Read our fraud article before buying or selling a used car. There are tons of scammers roaming the Internet looking on eBay and other online classifieds web sites for victims. If you know anyone about to list their car online for sale, or buy a used car from any online site, forward this to them. Don't accept a cashier's check from anyone until you read it. They are not good as cash. Don't agree to escrow of any kind without reading it! Don't send Western Union funds to anyone other than family! Read our Guide To Check Fraud, Escrow Internet Fraud, Auto Fraud, and Nigerian Scams.

Shop auto insurance costs for your used car
Before you shop for a used car, get auto insurance quotes to find out how much it will cost to insure it. Auto insurance sites BestCarInsuranceSite, Allstate, GEICO and LowerMyBills.com give you free online auto insurance quotes, so be sure to get pricing from them too.

There's over 2 million wrecks a year. Chances are that you are buying one of them. It happens every day to people who email me. Don't think it won't happen to you! Almost everyone I know has bought a used car that they later found out was in a wreck.

Buying used cars from car rental agencies
A rental car is just like any used car, but Most have scratches and scrapes, as every rental I ever drove had. But their engines are probably maintained better than privately owned cars, as they are kept in constant care and maintenance during use. When you rent a car from the top companies, they are clean, and I have never had a rental car break down. The companies tend to take them out of service by one to two years of age, so you are getting a decent car which the rental company has already absorbed the largest portion of the depreciation. Rental car companies tend to use no haggle pricing, and you'll often find that pricing to be higher than it should be. If you want full coverage, read our article on Extended Warranty Scams & Tips.

How can I sell my used car to a private party if I don't have the title?
If your bank or other lien holder has the title, ask them how to transfer the title to the person who buys your car. If you are selling your used car that you owe money on, you must call the bank for a payoff figure, and that is how much you pay the bank, shown on the title as the lien holder. Typically the lien holder sends the title only to the seller about 2 weeks after the lien has been satisfied. The seller then should FedEx the title to the buyer. The seller can make things easier for themselves by paying off the car loan before selling the car, then they will already have the title in hand.

Disaster Damaged Cars
Cars damaged in disasters will be salvaged, rebuilt, sold at car auctions and have their titles rebuilt, most likely out of state. Even if you live in another state, run an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report on every used car before you buy. Major vehicle disasters:

• Southern California Wild Fires - 2007, 2008, 2009
• Midwest Flooding - Spring/Summer 2008
• Midwest Flooding - Winter/Spring 2008
• Hurricane Katrina in 2005 totaled and flooded tens of thousands of vehicles in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama
• 4 Hurricanes, Charley, Frances, Ivan and Jeanne battered the Southeast in 2004

What a vehicle title search gives you
A vehicle title history on a used car can be your only friend to prevent you from getting ripped off on a used car. A car title history reveals a lot more about that used car than the seller is willing to tell you. Here's the dirt you can dig up when you when you run a car title search:

• Odometer actual mileage check, alerts if the odometer was rolled back
• If the used car was in an accident, it may show up in the auto title search
• If the used car was flooded, totaled by insurance, whether it was sold at an auction, if it has a salvage title
• Number of owners, dates when each owner bought the used car, if it was leased, a rental car, or a fleet car, or government vehicle
• Any auctions such as salvage or normal off lease wholesale auctions it may have been sold at
• When the dealer took delivery. Use this to haggle a lower price if the used car has been sitting on the lot for months

I ran the title check on a 4 year old used Honda Accord and discovered it had 3 owners in 3 years. That should send up a big red flag. Why would 3 different people buy the same used car and dump it a year later? Could be hidden problems that you don't want.

Buying A Used Car In New York?
When buying a used car from a private party in New York State, along with the Bill of Sale, be sure to have the seller sign the DTF-802 tax affidavit. Otherwise, the DMV will charge you sales tax based on the 'average wholesale value of your car'. Get the tax form here: http://www.tax.state.ny.us/forms/sales_cur_forms.htm

Texas cars have too many miles
Looking for a used Toyota Camry and Honda Accord for my mother in Houston, I noticed many used cars in Texas have high mileage. The standard is 12,000 miles per year. If you go over that, it reduces the used car's value. High mileage reduces the used car value by thousands, no just a few hundred. Avoid high mileage used cars, unless you get a good price.

Every single person who tells me they signed an AS IS paper got ripped off!
If you sign an "As Is" paper at a used car dealership, the state attorney won't even want to talk to you, and legally there is nothing you can do. Try a news station, every market has some consumer reporter at a TV station who eats this stuff up. A TV station is more powerful than the state because negative publicity hits a dealer's bottom line.

Common problems with used cars
You should be wary of prior car accidents with any used car, but don't just focus on that or you'll get blind sided by problems that your mechanic might not spot on commonly overlooked items, such as odometer rollback, missing airbags (you can't tell without removing the airbag covers), flooded cars, mismatched VINs, auto salvage yard auction sales, Gross Polluter, or stolen cars. Your mechanic does not run a vehicle title history, you must do it. Car dealers run a vehicle title history report when you trade in your car to make sure you're not ripping them off, and so should you so you don't get ripped off.

In Miami summer thundershowers flood the streets of Miami, stranding motorists, and flooding hundreds of cars. This happens in all big cities like Houston, where drainage is a problem. You see these floods on the 6 o'clock news and think nothing of it, but these flooded cars will be up for sale soon.

Used Car Dealer Myth: "I bought my used car from a big dealer, it's got to be ok!"
You must always perform due diligence no matter who you buy from. Unless you're buying a certified Lexus, BMW, or Mercedes, there is nothing certified about it. We hear from our readers that they run vehicle history reports on high end use cars and find they failed inspection. Most dealers don't do a lot to recondition a used car but they claim 300 point NASA checklists. There could be intermittent problems. If the dealer did not run an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report, they may have taken in that trade not knowing of previously floods, wrecks, or title issues.

Myth about odometer rollback
Many people think digital odometers cannot be rolled back. With digital odometers, the current mileage reading is stored in a flash chip or an EEPROM. It's easy to remove the EEPROM and reprogram it with a lower mileage, leaving no signs of tampering, so you must perform a title check. When a car is inspected the mileage is recorded, and whenever the title changes hands or it is traded in at car dealers, or turned in after a lease. On your vehicle history report, if a mileage event shows less than the last recorded mileage event, you know that odometer fraud has taken place.

Run A Vehicle History Report Before You Buy That Used Car
You would not believe how many emails I get from people who bought a used car then later found out it was previously wrecked, now they are stuck. Think of an AutoCheck Vehicle History Report as a credit report for used cars. You MUST run this vehicle title search if you buy a used car so you don't get scammed. There are many dishonest people who will not tell you where that used car came from or that that it was salvaged.

• Extended Warranty companies will not cover a salvaged car with a rebuilt title.
• Even the manufacturer's warranty is voided on a rebuilt or salvaged title.
• Banks will not finance a salvaged car with a rebuilt title.

I love receiving email from our visitors when they find out the used car they almost bought was a rebuilt wreck. One visitor told me he saved $7500. You can find the VIN# on a small metal dashboard plate looking through the windshield. Some cars also have the 17 digit VIN# printed on stickers on the drivers side door, trunk, other doors. My friend showed me a vehicle history report on a used Lexus RX300 that had been wrecked, another one showed me a vehicle history report on a Honda Odyssey minivan showing it was sold at a salvage auction.

Most states have no used car lemon law!
Lemon laws apply mostly to new cars sold to private people. Many fools think there is a used car lemon law, but in most states there is none, except for states like New York or Massachusetts, where they call it the Lemon Aid law for used cars.  The Massachusetts Lemon Aid Law allows you to void or cancel your sale if the used vehicle you buy fails to pass inspection within seven days from the sale and if the estimated costs of repairs of emissions or safety related defects exceed 10% of the purchase priceCheck with your state attorney general for information on lemon laws. Used car lemon laws only cover non leased cars bought from dealers. Help yourself proactively by determining if that car was ever wrecked, or flooded, salvaged, or totaled. However, New Jersey has a used car lemon law, NJ used car dealers are required to provide warranties on every used car that is sold for more than $3,000, that is less than eight (8) years old, has not been declared a total loss by an insurance company and has an odometer reading of 100,000 miles or less. Only used cars purchased after 1996 are covered. Check the NJ Division Of Consumer Affairs web site.

All about Kelley Blue Book
People ask "What's the Blue Book value of my trade-in?" The Blue Book value of your car is the market value listed in the Kelley Blue Book. Many people spell it wrong as Kelly Blue Book or Kelly's Blue Book or Kellys Blue Book or even NADA Blue Book or KBB. KBB started from a family owned used car business that bought trade-ins from auto dealers and used their internally generated list of used car prices to inform dealers how much the car was worth. They became trusted industry insiders and appraisers of car values. This led to Kelley Blue Book, named after the social register, called a blue book. The rest is history. KBB supplies used car prices to most car pricing sites. Dealers laugh when you tell them you know the Kelley Blue Book Value of your trade in. I think blue book car prices show trade-in values lower than other sources, which falsely leads you to accept less for your car then it is worth. Use other sites in addition to Kelly Blue Book to price cars. Most car dealers use the yellow NADA book to price used cars.

All About Edmunds
Edmunds.com has new car reviews, holdback listed by manufacturer, and photos for most new and used cars. Like Fighting Chance, it lists current factory to consumer rebates. Edmunds also has a useful Town Hall feature, where you can post a car related question and it will be answered by either a moderator or other car buyers in the Town Hall. Edmunds might not always have all the info, but hey it's free. You should price out a used car on Edmunds, and Kelley Blue Book to get a consensus on price. Then check all the used car classifieds that we mention here, and see how much sellers are asking for the car you want to buy. No one ever gets their asking price, so take the selling prices with a grain of salt.

Auto Black Book Used Car Values
This is one of the most debated and confusing areas of car buying and trading in used cars. Black Book is used by car dealers at the wholesale auto auctions. You'll see dealers walking around with their "Black Books", a pocket sized subscription based mini car pricing book updated at least monthly with regional selling prices from wholesale auto auctions. You can't get a black book; you have to be a car dealer to get your hands on one. It lists most vehicle makes, and models, and what they should sell for if the vehicle is in bad, fair or good condition. Click Here to read our Guide To Used Car Auto Auctions.

You need to do more than run Free Record Checks!
Don't just run an AutoCheck Free VIN check and think your job is done. That's just a teaser showing you how many records exist for that car, so run the full AutoCheck Vehicle History Report. Experian AutoCheck also has an excellent buyback guarantee. If for some reason a problem title is later found on a vehicle that shows a "Clean Title" in their system, Experian AutoCheck will buy back the vehicle from you. The AutoCheck 30 60 day Unlimited Vehicle History Report gives you the ability to check the history of every used car you are looking at.

This line item from a sample report revealed a Lexus that had been salvaged and rebuilt after an accident:

What about CarMax used car dealers?
CarMax, has high prices according to critics, and they don't deny it. CarMax, like any other, is in business to make money, so while they are accepted as honest, when dealing with any used car dealer, you must know the market value of the car, get all claims in writing, don't buy any car without at least a 30 day guarantee, and never sign an "As Is" paper! When selling them a used car, we found them to be fair. They give you an estimate with a 7 day guarantee of how much they will pay you for your trade in. They cut you a check on the spot too. However, I had 2 friends who got quotes from Carmax, and I was able to get one of them $3300 more for his car on eBay than what Carmax offered him.

Stolen car scam alert
The thief buys a Mercedes E Class at a junked salvage auction for $5,000. He launders the title back to a legit "Rebuilt" status, then steals the exact same model Mercedes E Class car. He files down the VIN on the stolen car, transfers the VIN plate from the rebuilt junked car, and sells you the stolen Mercedes E Class as a used car. The only way to uncover this scam is to check the VINs on all panels of the car to make sure they match.

Step #1) Search online used car classifieds and papers

Online used car classifieds and used car prices
Newspaper automotive classifieds are narrowly focused with limited market area. You want used car sites such as UsedCars.com, Cars.com, CarsDirect.com and Car.com. With thousands of cars listed. Savvy consumers sell used cars online on cheaper and heavily traveled auto classified web sites. Many services keep your ad online until your car sells, which newspapers don't do. This is an advantage of used car classified sites, many have 200,000 or more cars listed. Many cars list the VIN numbers online so you can run a VIN search. I've found many VINs to be false, and you have no recourse as you are buying the car "As Is", so find out problems before you buy, not after.

Step #2) Get a 30 60 day Unlimited Autocheck Vehicle History Report.

Best Advice On This Entire Page:
DO NOT buy a used car without running a used car history search like the Autocheck 30 60 Day Unlimited Vehicle History Report on the VIN# first. The Autocheck Report on a used car verifies that there was no previous branding of the title, flooding of the car, odometer rollback, salvaged title, or that it was reported stolen, and gives a good VIN decode. Sign up with them now before you forget, get the Autocheck 30 60 Day Unlimited Vehicle History Report option instead of the single report. Don't have a VIN to run yet? Yes you do, run your own car first. It's instantaneous, then run your parents' car to get a feel for reading the reports. Get the VIN off used cars you look at and it's an all you can eat Autocheck 60 day buffet. You'll look at 10 used cars before you buy.

Clever use of your vehicle history report to get a lower price on the car:

• One nice feature of the Autocheck Report that our visitors have made clever use of is the leasing and ownership history of the car. You'll find the car was sitting on the lot for 6 months. Use this ammunition to knock the price of the car down. If it's been on their lot for 6 months, no one wants it, name your price.
  
  
• Most people tell us they liked that it shows the state it was driven in, and when it was bought. This is useful data, a 2006 car could have been bought in 2005, so it's really older than the other 2006 models you are looking at.
  
  
• If the car went through an auction, it shows up in the used car history report. This is a great way for you to catch insurance companies who skirt the law. They resell a totaled car through a salvage auction, evading your state's minimum threshold of damage disclosure laws on the title. They are only required to brand the title if the damage exceeds a percentage of the value of the car. If they can get enough for the car at an auction, they won't have to brand the title even though the car should be totaled. In many states the Autocheck Report lists the police case number for car accidents it was in, and a description of the accident.

No VINs for cars made before 1981...
No one has car title reports for cars before 1981, when the 17 digit VIN became. Every car maker had their own format, and each state had unique formats, so you're out of luck Why the heck are you buying a car that old anyway?

Every VIN# Tells A Story
The 17 digit VIN# (Vehicle Identification Number) appears on all cars, in the dashboard on a metal strip. You can find the VIN# inside the driver side door on a factory sticker, the passenger door, the trunk, the hood, and sometimes the engine and other major parts have one, or it's engraved. My Lexus SC300 has stickers on most of the major panels. Car makers place VIN stickers on the major accident parts like doors, engines, and quarter panels, which are broken down from a car when it's stolen. If they show up on another car, something is wrong, the car was stolen, or junked and rebuilt. Check, doors and panels make sure all VIN#s match.

Where to get a VIN decoder
Many people ask this. The VIN decoder software is expensive. Some car fan pages decode a VIN only on one particular car. But one benefit of the Autocheck Report is it includes a VIN decode including the model, options, year, engine size and type, drive train info, country of manufacture, gas mileage, etc.

Watch out for used car airbag fraud! They can be over $800 to replace them yourself
Each year 2.5 million cars are wrecked, and 1 million end up back on the road. Airbag fraud is a huge scam. When cars are wrecked, the insurance companies pay for damages including airbag replacement. But unscrupulous repair people keep the money without replacing the $800 airbag, often stuffing the space with everything from crushed beer cans to peanut bags. Many companies sell fake airbag covers so that you think you have an airbag but you really don't. Many people, maybe even you, are driving around in a used car with no airbag, even though you think there is one there. You can't see through the airbag cover. That's why you need to know if the car was wrecked. In some states, Autocheck can tell you if the airbag was deployed in an accident, if police investigators check it off in the accident report.

Where Autocheck gets the data for your vehicle history reports
Enter the VIN# of the car and they search millions of vehicle records for rolled back odometers, junked cars, and accidents. Autocheck gets data from auctions, police car accident reports, DMV records, car rental agencies, leases, & inspection stations where odometer readings are collected. It can tell if the car was totaled in a wreck, returned as a lemon, flooded, or if the title was laundered from "junk" back to "used" status. Credit unions and dealers use these reports religiously, so should you and I. Enter the VIN#, the report appears online, with title and registration data, certified odometer readings, liens and more.

Don't ever say "It can't happen to me". You are the ideal target market for the schemers, who sneak right past your arrogance and into your wallet.

Smart buyers like you and me say "yes that can happen to me". This is true with exotic cars too. Read about one Ferrari buyer's used car dilemma in the New Times: If God Gives You Lemons, Make Millions. Too bad he did not visit us here before buying his used car, he would not have been taken.

The DMV processes and approves 350 "rebuilt" or "laundered" titles every month
Chances are good that you'll buy a car that was wrecked or stolen, and had the title "branded" as totaled, but it was laundered back to "used car" status by making a few minor repairs in a highly unsupervised and non regulated industry. You cannot guarantee your safety in a wreck. How do you know if the airbag still works, or the ABS? There is no safety data on rebuilt cars, don't risk the lives of your kids on a rebuilt car. Always run the car title.

Step #3) Get a used car loan (from dealer or person to person).

Most banks will NOT lend you money for a used car that is older than 4 or 5 years old. Banks charge at least 2% higher APR on used car loans, than they do for new car loans. But online lenders are much cheaper, and used car loan rates are closer to new car loan rates. Make sure your credit score is at least 680, then as a prime borrower, and you can choose the lowest APR. Never pay cash for a deposit on a car. If the deal falls through, you'll never get your cash back, but you can always dispute a credit transaction. If your credit is so bad and If you're in too deep, maybe now is not the time to buy a car.

How Much Used Car Loan Can You Afford?
Before looking for a used car, you better know how much you can afford. Banks will only lend you money to buy a used car up to 5 years old. This is why you are at a disadvantage when you trade in a used car over 4 years old at a dealer, because the car is worthless to them. The banks won't lend money to buy these older used cars, so they are harder to resell. Read our Auto Finance Help Section for tips on how to get the best rates on a used car loan.

Step #4) Negotiate tough with a used car dealer or private seller.

Negotiating tips on a used car for sale at a dealership:

"Certified Used Cars" at Car Dealers
The word "certified" is over used marketing for "reconditioning" tasks that some car dealers do to a trade in before they resell it. Some dealers lie and don't do a thing, some spray black paint on engine wires to make them look newer. For others it's a hot air excuse charge you more money. In fact, several of our readers have reported running vehicle history reports on "certified"; cars and found they had been in prior accidents. Not what you would expect from a certified Lexus. If you can get a 90 day warranty, then you're somewhat protected. Ignore verbal promises and read the exclusions list. But if you get a 90 warranty, it does not mean you're covered for everything. Don't let "certified used car" make you complacent and fail to perform due diligence on that used car!

Many 90 day dealer warranties only cover the power train, and nothing else.
If the engine blows next week, does the warranty cover it, or will the dealer blame you and tell you to go fly a kite? Tell them to put all verbal promises in writing.

Federal Law Requires the "Buyers Guide" On All Dealer Used Cars
Dealers MUST attach a federal "Buyer's Guide" sticker on the window of each used car, that tells you if the car is sold "As Is", or has a warranty and what obligations the dealer has. If the salesperson says the car has a warranty but the Buyers Guide sticker says "As Is", the sticker overrides the salesperson's lie. Unless there is time left on the 3 year manufacturer's warranty, you truly have no warranty if "As Is" is checked. Our number one complaint from consumers buying used cars from dealers, is the salesperson lied and told them the dealer will repair any failures, all the while the "As Is" box was checked. The dealers then refused the repairs. The Buyers Guide tells you to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy, and to get all promises in writing. If the deal was conducted in Spanish, you are entitled to a Spanish language version of the Buyer's Guide. Look for weasel clauses in their warranty, don't just glance at the warranty form. If a used car dealer does not have Buyers Guide stickers on their cars, leave immediately!

When negotiating the used car selling price at the dealer, remind them that they paid $3000-$4000 less than market value for the car so they can afford to charge less than market value. True market value is not just a price in a book, it's whatever the market will bear. Tell them the market's not bearing, that car will sit there costing them money, and they are passing up their chance to unload it, and pay the bills and feed their family. They'll say you're crazy, the internet sites for car pricing are wrong. If they try to justify their price by bringing up the warranty, tell them you should not have to pay extra for the car to be reliable for 90 days. It does not matter how much they "claimed" they paid for the car or how long it's been sitting there, the car is worth only what it's worth, what you are willing to spend, not what they write on the sticker. If you tell the dealer you have Kelley Blue Book pricing, they will laugh and say they use NADA pricing. NADA pricing is higher because it shows dealer cost to recondition the cars, and NADA is based on retail pricing at dealers, not so much on market pricing. Typical dealer prices on a used car can be $2,000 over market value.

We all buy stocks and when the price drops, we have to take less than what we paid for it, and cars are the same way, like an hourglass of value that keeps dropping. They should have dumped that car like a bad stock. Use this analogy when you haggle. They need to cut their losses now. The point is that it does not matter how much money was dumped into the car, it's only worth what the buyer is willing to pay for it.

Negotiating a used car purchase with a private seller

How To Transfer A Title From Seller To Buyer If The Seller Owes Money To The Bank
A "liened vehicle" has an outstanding loan obligation. The Certificate of Title for the vehicle lists the registered owner with the lender listed as the lien holder. The lender will not release the title until you pay off the loan, so they might act as a title agent, or they may work with a title agent. Sometimes they might mail out the title to the buyer a few weeks after you pay off the car. You must contact the seller's lender, NOT ME, and find what they need so you'll be ready. If you are looking for some further insights and guidance on the title transfer process you may want to consider an online service such as MyTitleTransfer.com that can assist you with these steps.

Don't shop for a used car hoping to hammer them down from the asking price, negotiating on the fly, and not knowing the true value of the car. That shotgun approach is unsuccessful. When you finish reading this section, you'll know more about the seller's car than the seller does, giving you the upper hand in negotiations. You must know every option that is on the car, then check the used car pricing sites to determine what the car is worth. When you call a seller to look at their car, ask for all the options, mileage, etc., then look up the prices before you go. Get the 17 digit VIN# from them and run the car title search using Experian AutoCheck Vehicle History Reports on it before you visit the seller. Then when you get there, you'll already know the value of the car, as well as if the odometer was reset, or if the title was ever negatively branded. Expect sellers to advertise grossly inflated "Hail Mary" asking prices, to "allow for negotiations". This is why you show up with the used car value printouts to instantly let the air out of their balloon and catch them off guard. They are unprepared as they are relying on that higher price to provide them margin to negotiate down in price with you, and you just took that away from them. Things like mileage, bad tires, cracked dash, faded paint, rust, seat stains, missing mats, and torn ceiling will greatly reduce the value of the car. You must use that to your advantage in negotiating the price down.

Be sure you print out our checklist of questions to ask the seller Click Here for our checklist of questions to ask the seller.

Call the seller, ask lots of questions
There's a lot of data you need before you can properly negotiate the price of the car, so when you call the seller, ask these basic questions if you don't want to print out our full list of questions mentioned above:

1) Why are you selling the car? Put them in a defensive position and they must answer quick. If they hesitate, they have something to hide. Why do most people sell their car? Maybe they lost their job, or there's too many things wrong with it and they don't want to fix it, they'd rather sell it to you. Maybe they bought a better new car and are selling it themselves. If you have a car that you love, you're not going to sell it.

2) How many miles are on it? The moment of truth for most sellers. This can really reduce the selling price if there's too much mileage. The standard is 12000 miles per year. If they have more than that, the pricing sites shown above have charts that deduct off the market value of the car.

3) Do they have all the maintenance records, proof of tune ups, and oil change receipts? You just nailed them with 3 defensive questions in a row. I'll bet no one will have this. I preach it to no end that everyone should. I had it for my Trans Am, and I sold it to the first person that came to look at it. The seller might say "No one keeps that stuff". Your reply will be "I do, everyone I know does", and without it, I have no validation that you properly maintained the your car, and now you want me to pay all this money for it?" Tell them no one does their oil changes on time. How many people change the oil every 3-6 months?

4) Have them describe the condition of the interior, the seats, make sure the dash is not cracked, find out about the paint, tires, A/C compressor, ask if the A/C runs cool. Is there any other known issues or needed repairs that you should know about?

Go check out the seller's used car
Make an appointment to see the car during the day. At night you can't see all that's wrong with it. If you make an appointment with a seller, show up 15 minutes after the agreed time. Once the agreed time has passed, the seller is now going through total hell, thinking you are not going to show. He's had a few no shows, believe me, I can personally testify to that. By time you show up, his confidence has been knocked down a notch. You are using psychological tactics and, legitimate methods of pricing a car. Always show up with at least one other person, and make sure you have your license with you, most sellers won't allow anyone without a valid license to drive their car. It's harder for a seller to say no and challenge 2 or more people than just one person, so always show up with an aggressive companion.

Scam Alert: If you visit a seller to test drive the car and they don't let you drive it, leave immediately. There's no reason to stay because you are not buying that car. I cannot believe how many morons pay a deposit or write a check for the entire amount without even driving it, or worse, without any receipt! The seller may tell you someone has a deposit on it so they can't let you drive it. Then they'll call you back later and say "the deal fell through". Here's where Darwinism or the natural selection process hits high gear, because many people foolishly return to see the seller and buy the car without driving it first! Once you sign, your rights are gone. The police or the state attorney's office don't give a damn about you because you signed an "as is" form, or more foolishly, a power of attorney form, or even more foolishly, have no paperwork signed by the seller at all stating that you bought a car from them. Lawyers won't help, your $5000 lawsuit is not worth their time.

Check the driveway or garage floor for signs of fluid leaks. Rust colored stains indicate a leaking radiator. Black or Brown puddles and stains indicate an oil or transmission fluid leak, and purple puddles indicate transmission fluid leaks. The seller will lie about his car not having leaks, but a driveway never lies. Make sure the seller sees you bending over to scrutinize the driveway and garage for signs of leaks.

Evidence of a previous accident or rebuilt Junkers
Check the tires and windows carefully for evidence of paint over spray. Sellers put a cheap paint job on the car and lie about it being in a wreck. The cheaper the paint job, the sloppier the body shop gets. They get over spray all over the place, and that's your singing telegram that the car was in a wreck or rebuilt.

Start Working On The Seller
Have your partner be negative, pointing out every little item that erodes away at the seller's asking price, and confidence. A great tactic with huge psychological impact is to rub your finger over every major scratch or dimple, and shake your head no in disappointment. The car dealers use this all the time, so learn from the best. You don't have to say a word, the seller reads it right off your face, and you've set him up for the low ball offer. Have your partner write down all damage.

Ask for the maintenance records. Bet he'll have nothing at all. This is why I tell you to save every record, and oil change receipt in a notebook. Just add each new one to the end, and you have a nice history record. Now buyers of your car years later can't say you did not take good care of your car. Ask if the car has been in a wreck, staring them right in the eyes waiting for their answer. If the answer is yes, inspect the area that was repaired, and point out every tiny little flaw in that repair.

Test Drive The Seller's Used Car
Take the seller with you and ask questions when noises pop up. Listen for noises, rattles, or grinding sounds. If you hear rattling in the quarter panels, the car may have been in a wreck. If the car is a manual transmission, see if the shifting is smooth. Ask the seller if the clutch has been replaced, clutches fail after 4-5 years. This sets up the seller for a low ball offer. Most people are unaware that manual transmission vehicles have lower market values than automatic. Check the heater and the A/C, drive it in the daylight when the sun is hottest, to see how the A/C performs. Listen for grinding noises when the A/C kicks in, the bearings in the compressor are worn.

If the car has a voltmeter, make sure the voltage stays at 13.6 volts when the A/C is on. Bring a portable volt meter with you. Not everyone has one, many people do. You can get them for $20. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running, and the meter set to DC Voltage. The voltage should be at least 13.6 Volts with the engine running, and no more than 14.8 volts. If it's not, there is a problem with the charging circuit, most likely the alternator, which is a costly component, usually about $150 rebuilt. If the battery is not at least 13.6V with the engine on, the 12V battery will not remain charged, and will die soon.

Drive with the radio on and off. Test the speakers to see if they are cracked. Make sure the CD player works. Take the car on a highway, main streets, and side streets, see if the car loses alignment, or bears to the left or right. See how good the car brakes, drive sharply around some corners, and your companion is writing everything down. Make sure all the seat belts work, that electric seats work, look for missing or burned out bulbs inside and out. If the car has retractable headlights, make sure they pop up and turn on. Make sure the brake lights, reverse lights and directional lights work. Ask the seller when the brake pads were last replaced.

Tip: Check for leaks in the car!
Spend $4.00 to $5.00 and get a automatic high pressure car wash BEFORE buying the car. After one of our visitors bought their car they did just that and discovered that the new windshield leaked.

Check All The Fluids
Check under the hood to see how clean the engine is. Is the radiator fluid green? If not, it's been a while since the radiator was maintained and the fluid has turned brown. Is there any windshield fluid? If it's low, you should be getting bad vibes, a sign that you're dealing with a lazy owner, who couldn't spare a few seconds to add a few ounces of windshield fluid when he's about to sell. Think he did his oil changes on time? Check the transmission fluid, it should be purple if it's fresh, slightly brown if it's older. It should NOT be black. Check the air pressure in the tires and check for uneven wear on the tread. Ask the seller when the tires were replaced last.

Ask the seller to point out all known defects, problems, issues, etc. with the car. If there are any subsystems, alarms, or computer indicators that are not functioning, have them point it out to you. Ask if there is an extended warranty with the vehicle, and if it is transferable to you. Verify this with the warranty company. Ask to bring the car to your mechanic to check it out. If they say no, you have to wonder what they are hiding.

Negotiating the Price With The Seller
You can start negotiating price, or go home, study all the data you collected, then when you have all your ducks in a row, go back to the seller to negotiate. Don't just try to chisel down their price, that's old school negotiating. Your offer will be based on sound research yielding the fairest price possible, ignoring the asking price altogether. Offer what the car is worth based on market values given by car pricing sites. They will all have varying values, so get an average figure, and print out from all the sites. Don't forget to subtract for over mileage, and add for options. Many used car pricing sites have three categories of condition of the car which they report the market value of. The condition will be listed as bad, fair, good, and each has it's own dollar value listed, similar to the blue books in the stores.

Research selling prices at sites such as UsedCars.com, Cars.com, CarsDirect.com and Car.com. Choose ads that are lower priced than the seller's car, to prove he is asking more than others. Include links to the ads if you’re negotiating online via email or an online service like MyTitleTransfer.com. This will burst their bubble, when you can show them several cars of the same model and year as his, that are far cheaper. The seller might tell you "OK, so you found a cheaper price, maybe they have problems with their cars". You'll just reply "You mean every one of these cars has problems?"

Most sellers don't know how to price a car, so when you give your offer, it may be far less than the seller's "Hail Mary" price. They'll get all insulted, and tell you you're crazy, that's way below their asking price. You must then educate the seller that his asking price was wrong to begin with. That's when you show him the printouts from all the pricing sites or send them the links. The seller may show you other cars in the newspaper and say "See, they are asking the same amount". Just tell the seller that very few sellers get their asking price when they sell a car, so those newspaper prices he's showing you are inflated.

"What kind of research did you do to determine what your car is worth?
Show me your research printouts, I have all mine right here, where's yours?"
I bet the seller has no research may be arrogant and indignant over your offer. They are unaware their asking price is off base, they get infuriated with your "low ball offer", and may refuse to deal with you. They probably need the money, the car is taking up space in their driveway, their wife complains every day as he lets offers slip through his fingers. His pride won't let him sell the car at your price. He'll say, "why don't you buy one of those other cars if they are cheaper? If my car is not worth it, why do you want it at all?" It's their last ditch futile effort to justify their price. He's trying to divert you from the fact that he cannot justify his selling price. Any seller using this strategy has just told you he has no valid research on the value of the car. A seller who knows the market value would say "Here's my printouts from the car pricing sites, my price is in line with accepted standards" or they would send you links to online sites to verify the information. Tell him "We like your car, but the research we have shows that it is not worth your asking price", point out all the defects, lack of maintenance records, etc. Tell him the printouts or links he sent specify a car in good condition. Point out scratches, dings, rust, carpet stains, cracked dash, justification to offer even less than the car pricing printouts. Keep hammering him for his research and justification until you are the clear victor of that debate.

Tell the seller if his car was really worth what he is asking for it, then it would have sold already.
Tell the seller "You'll have your garage back, you'll have this cash which I'm sure you can use, no more no shows, no wife nagging you about getting the car sold, no more renewing your ads." Just because he did not get his asking price does not mean he lost. Your suggestion that he's a winner puts him at ease..

Then your buddy chimes in, heads for car, motioning to leave. Your buddy says "he's not going to lower the price, you are just wasting your time, and you should go back to the other seller who was flexible". Your buddy reminds you the "other car" had lower mileage. The seller is listening to this exchange and panics. He knows you're on your way out the door, his sales tactics have failed him. You must always be prepared to walk. There will be other cars. If his car was so great, it would have been sold already. Make your ultimatum to the seller. There is no way you will pay more for any car than fair market value. Right after you say this to the seller, turn to your buddy and ask him where the next stop on your list it. Your buddy pulls other ads out of the folder, and reads off the info. Head to your car to leave. Hopefully this will make the seller hop into action and accept your offer.

This is what gets you a good deal. Your strategy is to keep the seller on the defense. Whoever asks the questions is in control of the conversation. Continue firing difficult questions at the seller, but be polite. Let your printouts be the "bad guy", not you. Don't say "You're crazy, I don't think your car is worth this". Instead tell the seller "the research I have here shows that your car is only worth this". Now your friendly relationship with the seller is still intact, and you are a messenger relaying information. How can the seller argue with data from car sites who are experts at pricing cars? Skillful treatment of the seller gets your deal signed for you. You can let them know their deal is lousy without hurting their feelings.

If you’re the type that feels uncomfortable with face-to-face negotiation you may want to negotiate via email. Just make sure if you do this that you save your emails as a record of the agreement. You could also use an online used car-purchasing tool like Deal Negotiator from MyTitleTransfer.com. Online negotiation lets you take your time and get your ducks in a row throughout the negotiation and also retain documentation of the negotiation.

Step #5)

Right Click Image, choose "Save Target As" to Download spreadsheet

Use Our Free Used Car Bill Of Sale Form This useful Excel spreadsheet is actually 2 forms in one. The first spreadsheet is a Used Car Bill Of Sale, which takes the guesswork out of what information you need when transferring title of a car from the seller to the buyer. The second form is a Deposit Slip Form, similar to the Bill Of Sale. The deposit slip is used as a written confirmation between the buyer and seller itemizing the selling price of the car, the buyer's deposit, and how much the buyer still owes on the used car. The deposit buys you time while you go to the bank to get a bank draft. This form is from our free spreadsheet download area.

Step #6) Complete the sale, get an extended warranty
Once the seller agrees to your offer, discuss payment options. Use our bill of sale that itemizes the car, and it's VIN#, with any known failures on the car. Sometimes the seller may promise to fix something for you after the car is bought, but this is a dangerous deal to enter. Tell them to fix it first or put it in writing. If you want any kind of traceability, get a bank draft, with the seller listed as payee. Cash is dangerous to carry around. With a bank draft, you have a record that you paid the seller money in case there are problems down the road. If the car turns out to be stolen, you can cancel the bank draft. But you can't cancel cash. Some people don't want a paper trail, but be aware of the risks. This is one of the our most important warnings:

NEVER take delivery of a used car from a seller without the title! Anyone who owns their car has the title, so accept no excuses! If they are still paying off a car loan, the bank holds the title. Do NOT give the seller balance due until the title is in your hand. This may mean going to their lender, paying the check, and the lender will give the seller what's left over, and they'll sign and notarize the title over to you on the spot. Don't fall for any tricks like "I'll have the title in a few days, once you pay me". Anyone about to sell a car that they own has possession of the title. The seller will sign the back, indicate the mileage, and the amount they sold the car to you for. Be sure the seller has a valid driver license and that they are the owner of the car listed on the title. If they give any resistance, the deal is off. You have every legal right to verify who they are and that they are the owner of the car. NO TITLE, NO DEAL! IT'S THAT SIMPLE!

Auto Warranties On Used Cars
Many used car dealers sell cars with no warranty, or "As Is", which is not what you want. So here's our first used car lesson:

NEVER EVER sign an "As Is" paper at a car dealer. You want at least a 30-90 day warranty or DO NOT buy the car! The minute they stick an "AS Is" paper in front of you, get up and walk out. Verbal promises mean absolutely nothing. "Buying a car "as is" disclaims all warranties. You should not expect any legal protection if the car is a "lemon." If they claim there is a warranty, get it in writing, and READ it.

Older high mileage "beater" used cars might be impossible to get a warranty for as dealers can't find companies to provide coverage for those cars. In that case, it's even more important to have a mechanic check out that used car first. You don't want to inherit any surprise problems.

If you buy from a private seller, it's "As Is", you have no choice, so get an extended warranty. Have a good mechanic perform an inspection of the car. Why should you spend money on a mechanic? I'd rather spend a few dollars on a mechanic now, than $3000 on repairs later when the axle falls off. The mechanic is a great investment if it alerts you to a costly engine repair that even the seller was unaware of. In our chapter on extended warranties, we recommend sites like WarrantyDirect, CARCHEX & Nation Warranty Corporation for extended warranties at much lower prices than dealers offer.

We've seen news stories of people suckered by scam artists selling cars by the side of the road. They do this so you can't find out where they live. Their selling price is very low to reel you in, but the ad says cash only. It's an awesome deal, the guy priced it to sell, so he wants cash. Morons just go to their bank, withdraw $8500 and hand it over to a complete stranger with no title. Then he takes your money, gives you the car, but you go to get the vehicle registered and the state tells you it's a stolen car. Then you lose all of your money. And foolish you paid in cash. The state will take the car from you because it's stolen property, and you are left with NOTHING! No money, no car, nothing. One victim lost $8500 buying a pickup truck. He did not receive the title from the "seller" so he got taken. Their brains were doped by a low selling price. Why didn't they check the guy's drivers license?

If the seller does not have the title, they are not the owner of the vehicle.

Don't Forget Sales Tax!
Check out the laws and procedures of transferring title in your state. Next, fill out the back of the title to register the car in your name with the state. There is also a box to enter the selling price. People like to write in a much smaller amount for the car than they actually paid in an effort to avoid paying a high tax bill. I advise against this, your state is not stupid. Their computer tells them the blue book value of the car. If you paid $7000 for a car then claimed you paid only $2000, the computer flags down the Department of Revenue, and they'll send you a nasty letter stating that they know the car is worth $7000, time to pay up!

Drive Home With Your New Car
Before you drive away from the seller's house, make sure you have the title, a signed copy of the bill of sale, the maintenance records, and don't forget to ask if there is a special wheel lug key or you cannot change a flat tire, and a repair shop cannot replace your tires. Make sure you have all sets of keys, owners manuals, repair manuals, and spare parts that the seller may have, like extra lamps, headlights, wiper blades that they forgot about. Be sure the car has a spare tire and jack. Make sure all brake lights and other lamps work, and check the fuse box for blown fuses, replacing any as necessary. You don't want to get pulled over by the cops for no brake lights on your way home. Ask the seller if they have a car cover, or if the car has T-Tops, ask for the storage pouches. If the car does not have jumper cables, go buy some on the way home, without delay. You never want to be without jumper cables. Don't skimp on the cost either, go to Sears, and buy the thickest gauge can afford. The decent cables start at $20, the $10 ones are useless and you might as well not buy them at all. You may want to have an oil change done. Ask the seller for receipts for the battery or alternator. Many auto parts stores have lifetime warranties on alternators, or will prorate a failed battery ONLY if you have the original receipt. I keep mine in an index card box, and anytime I have to replace the alternator or battery I know where they are.

About 30 days after you buy your used car, run another Vehicle History Report to catch any last minute title issues that could have popped up days before you bought the car. Some states can take over a month to propagate their info to the AutoCheck databases. The seller could have rebuilt the title a week before you bought it so it might not show up in a title check for a month.

Check out our chapter on Selling used cars, with advice for sellers, to see how they'll react to your negotiating!

How To Sell Your Used Car

Jump to any chapter. I suggest you read each chapter in order.
Chapter 1 Get your credit report, how to get a car loan, scams, online car loans, first time car loans, budget & loan excel spreadsheets, credit repair.	Chapter 2 Reviews of internet discount car buying sites, new car prices, find dealer's invoice cost. Get a new car quote.	Chapter 3 What to bring to a dealership, what to say, how to act, what not to do, what to look for at the dealership, and a glossary of all dealer fees.	Chapter 4 How to read dealer invoices, finding dealer's cost, how much to offer the dealer, buyers offer spreadsheet, examples, trade-ins.
Chapter 5 Negotiating tips, dealer scams & tricks to watch out for, dealing with aggressive salespeople, choosing between rebates or low APR loans.	Chapter 6 Close the deal, avoid needless extras, scams in the business office, extended warranty scams, options, buying warranties online.	Chapter 7 Actual misleading dealer ads, and what to do when you've been ripped off, customer satisfaction surveys, how I bought my Lexus.
CarBuyingTips.com

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