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Our 6th Annual
 Top 10 Car Dealer Scams Of 2002 and 2003©
Your Host: Jeff Ostroff

We've been reporting car dealer scams since 1996. We are proud (or should I say dismayed) to present our 6th annual list of the "Top 10 Car Dealer Scams" that you are likely to encounter, based on our research from over 9000 visitors daily.  We analyze many problem car sales and leases faxed to us by scammed consumers, and we collect all the complaints we receive each year and compile this list of currently running scams at some car dealers.  These scams are real, and they happen to people every day. Many car dealers are honest, but this Top 10 list deals with the dishonest car dealers.  Send this article to a friend (Click Here).

When you are done reading this article, PLEASE read our investigative report on fraud related to buying cars.  If you know anyone about to list their car online for sale, or buy a used car from any online site, forward it to them. CarBuyingTips.com Guide To Check Fraud, Escrow Internet Fraud, Auto Fraud, and Nigerian Scams. These scams are nabbing hundreds of victims daily.  You'll see our screen shots of several known and still operating fraudulent escrow web sites, and scans of several counterfeit cashiers checks, some from Bank Of America.

If you are lucky, you won't see these scams, but you may see a few. If you have bad credit, you're likely to see most of them.  People with bad credit are easy prey and should not buy now, or avoid financing at a dealer, to eliminate one of their shells in the cash flow shell game. The nastiest scams occur in the finance office, where the foolish let down their guard after the sale.  Some scams haunt you weeks later, when you find they still have their tentacles in your wallet. The people who see the fewest scams are those who show up at the dealer with no trade, and a bank draft from an online car loan site, or their credit union.

This is why we prefer to use sites such as Cars.com, InvoiceDealers, Autoweb, CarsDirect, Edmunds.com and Car.com, because you bypass the commissioned sales people, dealing with the fleet manager or internet manager, who usually ends up giving you a better deal, and with no scams.
 

Funny sales phrases that salespeople like to use on you.
Did they all take the same sales training course somewhere?

"You're stealing food from my baby's mouth" "The web sites you got the prices from are wrong."
"Everybody pays this fee" "This car won't be here tomorrow"
"We're losing our shirt on this deal" "Do you want the car? What will it take to make you sign today?"

Attention members of the press:  You may quote information from this page provided you give appropriate credit.  For additional press information, click here: Press Information.


Is it a loan or not a loan?

Quite often the "car loan" you're applying for at the dealer is not really a car loan.  They are known in the car business as Retail Installment Sales Contracts, or RISCs.  (an appropriate acronym). The dealer signs the RISC with you, then sells it to a bank, or other lender, hopefully at a good markup on the contract.  Sometimes they also participate in the interest rate. So the higher APR they charge you, the more money they make.  Car dealer financing is not a service they provide for you, it is a product they sell to you. If they can get you a better APR, fine.  But if not, have your own financing ready to fall back on.
 

Top 10 Car Dealer Scams Of 2002 and 2003©

1) The "VIN# Window Etching" Scam
2) The Financing Fell Through Scam (Spot Delivery Scam)
3) The "Lie To The Customer About Their Credit Score" Scam

4)  The "Forced Warranty" Scam
5)  The "Dealer Prep" Scam (Excessive Fee)
6)  "Additional Dealer Markup (ADM)" Scam
7)  "We'll Payoff Your Loan No Matter How Much You Still Owe!!!"
8)  The Previously Wrecked Used Car, Sold "As Is" Scam

9)  The "Your Bank Bounces Checks" Scam

10) The Forced Credit Application Scam


Scam #1: The "VIN# Window Etching" Scam

How the scam works:  Dealers slip in a $300-$900 fee for window etching, saying that you won't get the loan without it, as "the bank requires it".  You can order the same do it yourself kit used by car dealers online from VINetcher Do-It-Yourself VIN Etching Kit for $19.95. Some dealers may tell you the VIN etch was free, yet they still padded your monthly payment with the fee.  Some dealers claim it will pay your deductible if the car is stolen.  So why do you have to pay $400 to avoid paying a $500 deductible?  What a scam!

Ever since dealers sold the first chariot in Roman times, they have come up with ways to sell you the most overpriced option.  In the 80's it was Scotch Guard for $400 that you can do with 2 cans of Scotch Guard for $10 at Kmart.  Then there was the $800 "AutoArmor" that claimed you never have to wax your car again.  They still do the $1800 alarm that they paid $100 for, including installation. They sell you these options at maximum rip-off prices, and it often costs them next to nothing to farm out the work.  Let's analyze the stupidity factor on this Window Etching scam. Dealers lie and tell you of huge savings on your car insurance. Most people email us to say their insurance company has no idea what they are talking about, so no discount.  The buyers who do get discounts get a $6 savings off the theft portion of their car insurance.  It's a legitimate product, but it's not worth more than $40.

How to avoid the scam:  Have it removed from your papers.  If they say it's free, tell them to put it in writing.  If they say it's already on the car and can't be removed, don't buy the car, and save yourself $300-$900.  You can get your own VIN etching kit cheaper online. The VINetcher Do-It-Yourself VIN Etching Kit is only $19.95Remember, lenders don't require you to buy useless extras.  The only thing a lender requires you to do is pay back the loan. Some police departments will do VIN etching for you for free as a community service.

 

Scam #2: The Financing Fell Through Scam (Spot Delivery Scam)

How the scam works:  Also, known as the "Yo-Yo". Lots of people email us about this scam. You trade in your old car, and the "LieNance" manager says you got a good APR, hands you the keys, and you drive home.  Two weeks  and 500 miles later, they call you saying "Sorry, you didn't qualify for the interest rate we signed you up for".  This is where "subject to financing" clauses on contracts bite you in the butt.  Everyone thinks that you sign papers and drive off and the deal is done.  But it's far from done. They knew what you qualified for before you signed, unless you lied about your income. Otherwise they'd never let you drive off with the car.  

They knew your credit score.  If it's above 680, you'll get a low APR.  If it's below 680, expect a higher APR. Your credit union will print your credit history and approve you in 10 minutes.  So why the problems with the dealer's lender?  There usually is no problem, it's a scam.  There is a phrase on most buyers orders stating "subject to loan approval". This Jedi mind trick means: "The deal is not final, even though you signed this contract." They'll tell you that you must produce an additional $1000 AND your payments would go up $50/month.  They pull this scam on people with bad credit, because it's believable. They get the least resistance from this crowd.  If they pull this scam on smart people like you and me, they'd get nowhere with it. So why would they tell someone with bad credit that they got them 6% APR when they knew the buyer would not qualify for under 18% APR?  To sell the car!

How to avoid the scam:  This one is very simple to avoid.  DON'T FINANCE AT THE DEALER if you have bad credit.  Try to arrange your own financing then see what the dealer has to offer. If you have good credit, they usually don't pull this scam. Read our chapter on How to finance your car or use a credit union instead. By bringing in your own financing, you won't have to endure all the monthly payment quotes and scams, and the deal will be conducted the way it's supposed to be: based on the selling price of the car, not based on the monthly payment.  The minute they start negotiating the car by monthly payment, it's time to leave, as fast as your little feet can move you.  They are trying to condition to you as a monthly payment, while shielding you from the actual selling price.  But if you do finance through a car dealer, leave a deposit on your credit card, and do not take delivery of the car until the loan has been approved in writing.  Once that happens, you know the lender has accepted your loan and processed it.  Sure they hand you the keys and say it's all right to drive off right now with the car, but don't do it. For other buyers the dealer will tell them on a lease, that the dealer made a mistake and you need to come back in and resign a new contract.  And gosh golly, your new monthly payment will be higher.  If your purchase was a lease, then it's a contract, and the dealer cannot make you undo a contract.  Just think, if you tried to get out of lease, they would come after you in court right?

What to do if this scam happens to you: If you are sure that you at least got a decent price on the car based on what you learn on this site, then your best solution is to preserve your deal, by doing what you should have done in the first place; get your own instant financing online. If you have a credit score over 650, go online right now to Capital One Auto Finance or Up2Drive and apply online, and get approved within the hour. They will FedEx you a check, which you'll have the next day and take that to the dealer to pay for your car, now you have a guaranteed car loan and the lender will not call you 2 weeks later to say it financing fell through! If your score is below 650, then apply through AutoCreditFinders instead. If the dealer says they won't take the checks because "the checks from online lenders bounce" they are lying, and just trying to railroad you into their profitable financing. You should then get out of that deal.

 

Scam #3: The "Lie To The Customer About Their Credit Score: Scam

How the scam works: This is one of my favorite Jedi Mind Tricks. The Lie-nance manager lies to you about your credit score, telling you it was really low, so you now have to pay a much higher car loan interest rate than you thought.  This scam is pulled on people with good credit too.  It's funny, most people know their own cholesterol levels, but they don't know their own credit score.

One buyer told us his score was 780 (Excellent) from 3 credit bureaus. At the car dealer he filled out a credit application. Four finance people came out with "concerned looks" and a paper that said "credit score" on it with the number 580 circled in red. They stated they could only get him financed at 10.9% APR, not the special 0% interest rate. He pulled out his own credit score with 780 and asked why the dealer was different from his Equifax credit report. Three sales guys scattered, the last guy lied, saying that "credit agencies display better credit scores to consumers than to businesses".  Our friend bought his car elsewhere with the low 0% advertised APR.  Quite often car buyers are suckered into paying a much higher APR by dealers.

How To Avoid The Scam:  No salesperson should know more about your credit history than you.  If they pull this scam, pull out your credit score and put a stop to it.  This is why we stress that you should have your financing 100% lined up before you buy your car.  Then give the dealer a chance to beat your best car loan quote.   If they pull any funny business, pull out your bank draft from your previously lined up car finance institution, or just leave. Read our chapter on Auto  Loans Tips & Scams for tips on getting your credit score and online car loans.

 

Scam #4: The "Forced Warranty" Scam
How the scam works:  An old one that's still in use. You're in the business office of the "AutoMaul", ready to sign the papers when the LieNance manager says you MUST buy a $2000 extended warranty "because the bank requires it, or you won't get the loan".  Let's analyze the stupidity factor of this one, shall we? The lender is worried about your ability to pay back a loan on a $25,000 car, so they want you to add another $2000 to the loan to qualify?  Please! Many suckers fall for this and the credit life scam.  Some dealers don't even tell you that you're buying a warranty.  They may lie and say it's a buy down fee "to lower your APR", like points on a mortgage.  Car loans don't work this way.  Just think, if you paid cash for the car or came in with your own financing, they could not pull this scam on you could they?  It's amazing how many people complain to me that they did not see it on the paperwork until they got home!  I guess during the 20 minute drive from the car dealer to their house is when they mastered reading.  If I live to be 100 I'll still never figure out why they don't look before they sign.  People will spend more time analyzing a $2.00 watermelon in the grocery store than they do for a $20,000 car!

How to avoid the scam:  Have them to put it in writing that the warranty "is required to be approved for your loan", so you can show it to your State Attorney to get their opinion of its validity.  Watch how quick they back off.  Read our Tips For Getting A Good Car Loan and avoiding scams.  Also read our Extended Warranty Scams & Buying Tips.  This scam works on people with bad credit and may also "require" you to buy credit life insurance, or "your APR will go up".  One of our visitors sent us her Ford paperwork with extended warranty, credit life, and disability for $3385! Do they want to sell you a car or insurance?  If they refuse to remove the extended warranty, remove yourself from that devilship immediately. (Oops, I meant to say dealership). Many dealers sell you mechanical breakdown warranties, which are lame compared to the superior wear and tear warranties offered online. Also, dealers typically charge $500-$700 for Gap Insurance, which you can get online directly from companies like Gapinsurancequotes.com for half the price that car dealers sell it for.  So if the dealer tells you the bank requires gap insurance, tell them you will go get it yourself.

Another way to avoid the scam: DON'T FINANCE AT THE DEALER with bad credit. Finance your car online or at a credit union. They won't force you to buy a warranty. Now you just eliminated the dealer's excuse to force a warranty down your throat. If you get a loan from a bank, credit union or online lender, they don't force a warranty or credit life on you, so why would a dealer?  Why does APR matter whether you buy a warranty or not?  It's all cash flow shell games folks, remove their shells, and no more games.

Don't fall into the gap!
If you owe more on your car than it is worth, if you lease, or if you put down less than 20%, you should get Gap Coverage
from your insurance agent. Most people refer to it commonly as gap insurance".  Don't even bother buying it from dealers, they charge $500-$700 when you can get it online directly from the source for less than 1/2 the car dealers.  If you owe $20,000 on your car, but it's only worth $16,000, you're upside down. You total the car, or it's stolen, your insurance company gives you $16,000. You must still come up with $4000 to pay off the bank, plus your $500 deductible!  Gap coverage protects you against this. The better ones cover up to $500 of your deductible.

Scam #5: The "Dealer Prep" Scam (Excessive Fee)
About This Fee:  A better definition here is "Excessive Charge", since this is not really a fraud, nor is it illegal per the literal definition of "scam". Most dealers do adequately disclose this fee on their paperwork. Many dealers even admit that its a way for them to recover some of their "losses" when discounting the car off MSRP retail price. But our position is that it is too excessive, and since it is printed permanently on their buyers form, what about the case when you pay full price on the car, now you have to pay up to $500 more in fees? Why don't you get to charge dealers a shopping around fee for all your labor hours? Car dealers convince you that a team of NASA experts performed a 3 day 15000 point check of your car.  Dealer prep "covers their cost" of removing plastic from the seats, vacuuming, adding fluids, and preparing it for sale. Total time: 2 hours max. I've been there when picking up my new cars and know how long it really takes. Tons of our visitors report back that they convinced their dealer to drop this fee. But most MSRP stickers show these costs are covered by the car maker, so why does the dealer still charge you? Here's the MSRP sticker from my Lexus:

See What I mean? It very clearly states that pre delivery service is included.

The factory pays the dealer for this pre delivery service. The day my Lexus SC300 arrived, I waited as it took the dealer 2 hours to peel film and cardboard, install fuses, check the liquids, perform a 10 mile test drive, and hand me the keys. I got out of paying it. If a dealer charges a $500 dealer prep, you're paying them $250/hour for just 2 hours of work!  Do YOU get paid $250 per hour? Are you boiling mad yet?  If they charge dealer prep, they may be double collecting.

How to avoid the fee:  Often it's permanently printed on the buyer's order to make you think it's mandatory, but many people make the dealer remove it by adding a credit on the next line.  So if you see a $500 dealer prep on the form, have them add a -$500 credit.  If they won't budge you need to decide how bad you want that car.  I have no problem walking out of a dealer over a $500 fee. Go to the next dealer on your list, and tell them "Here's the deal.  Drop the dealer prep, and the deal is yours".  Remember, Dealer Prep is not illegal, either you agree with it, or you don't.

 

Scam #6: The "Additional Dealer Markup (ADM)" Scam
How the scam works:  These are bogus charges added by greedy dealers.  It means "Additional Dealer Markup" or "Additional Dealer Profit", and usually appears on an orange sticker next to manufacturer's MSRP sticker.  I call it Arrogant Dealer Markup.  ADM gives them an artificial buffer to bargain down the price, or worst case, it gives them more icing on the cake when they are already selling you a hot car.  In 2001 when Honda Odysseys were in such hot demand, car buyers were paying $2000 over MSRP, thanks to bogus ADM fees.  Honda dealers also had the audacity to charge people dealer prep, ad fees, and throw in overpriced extras like $350 Window Etching, and $300 Scotch Guard.  The VINetcher Do-It-Yourself VIN Etching Kit is only $19.95! If you bought a new Odyssey or PT Cruiser in 2000 or 2001, you really had the screws put to you.  If ADM is $2000 and you talk them down $800, you still paid $1200 too much!  One reader bought a Honda Civic and the dealer tacked on a $1995 ADM!  Luckily she got them to drop it. "Trade in buyers", who only care about what they are getting for their trade in, fall for this one a lot, because they don't concentrate on the entire deal.  The dealer gave them an extra $1000 for their car, an now they are so euphoric they don't see the $2000 ADM.  The dealer just sold them a new car for MSRP, got their $1000 back, and made another $1000 off the buyer.  In April 2002, our local Mercedes dealer had an ADM sticker of $20,000 on the 500 SL Convertible, when there was an 8 month back log.

How to avoid the scam:  If you see this toxic waste, have them nix it. You must realize that when you sell the car later, the market value is based only on a depreciated value from MSRP, not MSRP + ADM.  A future buyer of your car could care less that you paid $2000 over MSRP, because vehicle depreciation pricing only accounts for the MSRP.

 
 

Scam #7: "We'll Payoff Your Loan OR Lease No Matter How Much You Still Owe!"

How the scam works:  These are common ads on the radio and newspaper all the time.  They rely on your brain to trick you, as if the obligations of your current lease or loan just magically vanish.  You can't just dump a lease, it's a contract.  By breaking the contract, penalties are stiff, in the thousands.  They do get you out of your current lease, but these payoff penalties must be paid to your leasing company to end the contract.  They are not doing anything at all for you, they just want your trade in so they can give you far below market value for it, while selling you a new car at a high profit. Then they resell your trade in for a high price. Here’s how the scam works: If you are upside down on your car loan and you still owe $10,000 for it, the dealer pays off your loan, then you owe that $10,000 to the dealer. This gets financed along with the $15,000 car you are buying, now you are financing 2 cars for $25,000!  Did you know that?

Your payments are spread out over 60 or 72 months so you don’t notice what just happened.  The more months they add to the loan, the lower the payments so you don’t notice. In fact, it's possible that the payments could be less than your current loan, so you think you're saving money when you just got shafted! Their ad made you think that trading in a car relieves you of your obligation to that car.  It does not!  This gets many, many, many people into trouble. You are actually taking on double your current debt, when you thought you were dropping one debt for another and buying a new car. They lied to you in their ad.  Sure they did get you out of the lease or loan, but you are not really out of it.  They dipped you out of it and then dipped you right back into it under their umbrella of debt.  Very clever trick, but now you're onto them.  Next time you hear those ads, you'll know what they're up to.
Here's how ads would be worded if they were truthful:

"We'll Get You Out Of Your Current Lease,  then we'll roll what you still owe plus penalties into your new purchase, 
so you can payoff 2 cars!"

How to avoid the scam:  If you are in a lease now, it's best to stay in it until the end.  Ride it out baby, you slaughtered the cow, now you have to eat it. If you are upside down on a loan, now is not the time to trade in the car.  You need to wait until the car is worth more than what you still owe on it.  Try selling it privately.  By mixing a trade-in with a new car purchase, you will lose the maximum amount of money possible.  Don't ever think you walked away ahead on a trade in.  No one ever has.  No one ever will.

 

Scam #8: The Previously Wrecked Used Car, Sold "As Is" Scam.

How the scam works: The dealer tries to sell you a car that has previously been wrecked, only they tell you it's in great shape, or lie about the wreck, or in some cases, they were honestly unaware the car was wrecked.  The car has the federally required Buyers Guide sticker with the words "As Is, No Warranty" on it, which means you are buying this car and assuming all risks, and cannot return the car, because you agreed to all accept any damages that accompany your "As Is, No Warranty".

Even "Certified Used Cars" can be previous wrecks, as we were surprised to find once after running the VIN on a certified used Lexus.  We get emails all the time from people who believe the dealer when they are told the car was never wrecked, then they find out a few weeks later when they bring it in for service that it was wrecked.  When they confront the dealer, they are reminded that they signed an "AS IS" paper, and have no recourse, because they can't prove anything. The As Is paper is the best alibi the dealer has to fall back on.  You however, have nothing to fall back on.

How to avoid the scam:  Never ever buy a used car from a dealer "AS IS" with no warranty.  Always try to get at least a 30 day warranty.  If the car really is the cream puff they make it out to be, let them back that up with a 3 month warranty.  You should always run an AutoCheck report on any used car before you buy, no exceptions.  That's how we found that a Lexus dealer's Certified Used Lexus had been in a wreck.  Always have a mechanic put the car on a lift BEFORE you buy.  They can tell you in 30 seconds if the car was wrecked.  Many people fail to perform these crucial 2 steps.  If you don't do these steps, then DO NOT buy that car.

 

Scam #9: The "Your Bank Bounces Checks" Scam

How the scam works: The dealer sees that you brought a bank draft from your credit union, or one of the finer online car finance sites such as Capital One Auto Finance or Up2Drive. Not wanting to miss out on the extra gravy provided by selling you on the car dealer's financing, they refuse to take your bank draft, lying to you that your "bank bounces checks."  They will say "we no longer take checks from them, their checks always bounce".  But gee, the dealer is willing to provide you financing, though at higher APR.

Some salespeople stop at nothing.  If your bank really bounce checks, we'd hear about it via federal investigations, like the morons from Worldcom, Adelphia, and Global Crossing.  I get daily emails from people who financed with Capital One Auto Finance and Up2Drive with no problem.  My friend financed 2 used cars with Capital One Auto Finance.  Another financed his house through E-LOAN. Besides, E-LOAN wires the money directly to the dealer's bank account, so it's impossible to "bounce a check".  There's nothing wrong with dealer financing if they can beat your best APR.  If not, you should use your financing.  Unless you qualify for a manufacturer's 2.9% financing, your online banks will beat the local banks used by dealers most of the time, and online lenders often beat your credit union rates too.  Regardless of their reasoning, if they refuse to take your online financing, you can just refuse to buy the dealer's financing... and the car too!

How to avoid the scam: Ask the lie-nance manager what bank they use for car loans.  When they tell you, say that you refuse to do a loan with them, you heard they bounce checks. Then point out to the finance manager that you're onto their scam, online banks have been in business for years and are in the business of writing loans and not bouncing checks.  Then get up to leave.  There is no reason for you to pay a higher APR, when you are already approved at a lower APR.  You should also file a complaint with your state Attorney General's Office, because we need to make this scam illegal for dealers who force you into higher APR financing. I get emails on this scam daily, and if the state attorneys do not know this is going on, they can't help us consumers. The federal government should wrap this into the Truth In Lending Act.  Here's our link to all 50 Attorney General's Offices.



Scam #10: The Forced Credit Application Scam

How the scam works: You decide not to finance your new car, or you bring your own bank draft from a major car finance company. You're in the finance office with your bank draft or money order, and paying in full.  The LieNance manager tells you that you must still sign a credit application.  They usually will tell you one of the following Jedi Mind Tricks:

1) "State law requires you to fill out a credit application."
2) "Everyone that buys a car through this dealer fills out a credit application."
3) "It's company policy."

Somebody find me a state statute that requires a cash buyer to fill out a car loan credit application.  Won't happen. If you are paying in full, there cannot possibly be any legitimate reason for the dealer to make you fill out a credit application, which drags down your credit score about 5 points each time someone other than you runs your credit report.  If your FICO score was 680 and they run your credit report, they just caused you to drop from a prime borrower to a sub-prime borrower.  Why do they do it?  Who knows, maybe they think they can convince you to finance through them.

How to avoid the scam: You are in control of the deal, not them.  You can just get up and walk out.  They have to stay there and mop up the mess they created.  Anytime a dealer tries to force you into financing that you don't want, without any regard to the damage they are doing to your credit history, you should leave immediately, because they don't deserve your money.

Don't forget used car scams too!
In our chapter
How to buy used cars and avoid scams  we tell you about buying used cars and scams to avoid.  In a nutshell, here are our top used car buying tips.  By doing just these 4 things, you can eliminate most issues associated with buying used cars.

Our Top 4 ways to prevent used car scams

1)  Have a mechanic put the car up on a lift for inspection and to check for accident damage.
2)  Run a Vehicle History Report to see if it was totaled, salvaged, rebuilt, flooded, failed inspection, odometer rolled back.
3)  Never sign an "As Is" paper at a used car dealer, get at least a 30 day warranty included.
4)  Have your own financing and loan approvals ready BEFORE you go shopping, not after.

 

Bonus Scam:  "We lowered your payments!"

Bone-Us Scam:  Ok, here's one more for the road, we got a couple of complaints about this starting in November 2002, and it could be a good candidate for next year's Top 10 List.  I call it the "We lowered your payments" scam:

About a week after you drive home with your new car, the car dealer calls you up and says "Great news! we were actually able to get you into a better loan with a lower monthly payment and less APR! Just stop by when you get a minute, and resign the papers to get your lower payment."  You go down to the dealer to re-sign the paperwork, and this is where a huge red flag should shoot up for you: You notice that they changed your loan from 48 months to 60 months, or even 72 months.  What they did in reality was increase the APR on you, then to mask their crime, they spread out the loan over more months, which drives down the monthly payment, and yes there are people out there who believe the dealer and think they are actually paying less.  This does not even pass the common sense test either.  With most banks, if you increase the number of months in the loan, the APR goes UP, not down!  So who are these losers trying to kid?  Make sure you point that out to them.

How to avoid the scam: If they call you later, just say "No thanks, I like my payment just the way it is." Then hang up on them. If you really want a lower rate, go refinance, or start sending in extra principle, it has the same effect.  But changing an existing deal, is always a dangerous proposition, and you can bet you will not come out ahead.

Get The Credit You Deserve
Going to a dealer without knowing what's on your credit report is about the most stupid thing a human being can do.  Before entering a dealer you must get a copy of your credit report.  Many people are scared because they don't know what's on their credit report or how it will affect their chances for car financing.  You also want to make sure that they list your latest salary increase. Dealers know that almost everyone has a bad mark on their report, and they make good use of it when they find it.  You get an erroneous notice from a credit card or bank saying "we never got your check".  You call them up, find out it's their mistake, no problem.  But many people are shocked to find out this error made it onto their credit report! This is why you must get your credit report BEFORE the dealer does.
 

Great Online Sites To Get Your Credit Report:

Experian Online Credit Reports A great place to get your credit report instantly online.  You get a thorough credit report in 30 seconds from one of the big 3 credit bureaus. They are strict about security so if you type one bit of data incorrectly or have moved in recently, you won't be able to get your report instantly.  Instead they'll mail it to you about a week later. We send all our friends and family there, because it's so easy to use.

Equifax Online Credit Reports Equifax is one of the big 3 credit bureaus in the U.S.  Most creditors who run your credit profile use Equifax, as they are the most thorough.  Usually when you apply for mortgages and car loans, many lenders get your credit report from 2 of the big 3 credit bureaus, and you can be pretty sure Equifax is one of them.  By using the same credit reporting agency as the bank, you'll be in sync with what they see.  Inferior credit bureaus may not have all the information that the Equifax report has, and this could lead to you getting rejected on your loan.

TrueCredit lists your credit report online instantly.  You can also have a merged report from all 3 credit bureaus mailed to your house in a few days. If you have never seen your credit history before, you should get the 3 in 1 merged report with FREE Score. The score is a numerical depiction of your creditworthiness, they explain the factors that influence your credit standing, and what items on your report are keeping you from getting approved.  Until 2000 legislation, you were not allowed to see your score.

 

A Look Back: Top 10 Scams from 2001

1) The "VIN# Window Etching" Scam
2) The Financing Fell Through Scam (Spot Delivery Scam)
3) The Straw Purchase Scam
4) The "Forced Warranty" Scam
5) The "Dealer Prep" Scam
6) "Additional Dealer Markup (ADM)" Scam
7) "We'll Payoff Your Loan No Matter How Much You Still Owe!!!"
8)  The "Forced Credit Life Insurance" Scam
9) The "Leasing Is Better Than Buying" Scam
10) Hide The Monroney (MSRP) Sticker Scam

Click here to see the details from the 2001 Top 10 Car Dealer Scams.

 

Another Look Back: Top 10 Scams from 2000

1) The "Window Etching" Scam
2) The "Forced Warranty" Scam
3) The "Forced Credit Life Insurance" Scam
4) The "Dealer Prep" Scam
5) The "Additional Dealer Markup (ADM)" Scam
6) The "Leasing Is Better Than Buying" Scam
7) "We'll Payoff Your Loan OR Lease No Matter How Much You Still Owe!!!"
8) The "Bait & Switch APR" Scam  a.k.a. "Spot Delivery Scam"
9) The "Disappearing Rebate" Scam
10) The Deposit Check Scam

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Jump to any chapter.  I suggest you read each chapter in order.
Chapter 1
Get your credit report, how to get car financing, scams, online car loans, first time car loans,  budget & loan excel spreadsheets, credit repair.
Chapter 2
Reviews of internet discount car buying sites, new car prices, where to find dealer's invoice cost.  Get a new car quote, All about car brokers, discounts.
Chapter 3
What to bring with you to a dealership, what to say, how to act, what not to do, and what to look for at the dealership, and a glossary of all dealer fees.
Chapter 4
How to read dealer invoices, finding dealer's cost, how much to offer the dealer, buyers offer spreadsheet, examples, car pricing sites,  trade-ins.
Chapter 5
Negotiating tips, dealer scams & tricks to watch out for, dealing with rude and aggressive salespeople, should you choose rebates or low APR loans.
Chapter 6
Close the deal, avoid needless extras, scams in the business office, all about extended warranties,  all about options, buying warranties online.
Chapter 7
Read some actual misleading dealer ads, and what to do when you've been ripped off, customer satisfaction surveys, how I bought my Lexus.
cars, autos, new car prices, used car prices, car buying, dealer cost, dealer invoice, car loans, auto loans, auto financing
CarBuyingTips.com

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